Every year I strive to improve my ability to force branches from flowering trees and shrubs. It’s a great way to speed up spring. This winter was colder and snowier than last year. This winter has not been as cold but it’s also not been as intermittently thawed.

The temperatures have been moderated in the past week. It’s been above freezing almost every day, so I think it’s about time to start pushing branches.

How can you force branches to grow?

Simple: Cut branches from flowering shrubs or trees and bring them inside. The warmer temperatures will encourage the branches to bloom early. The devil lies in the details.

When should you prune the branches?

According to most articles on this subject, you can cut branches at any time as long as temperatures have been below 40degF for 8 weeks. Many articles say to wait until the temperature rises above freezing. In my cold climate I wait until temperatures are above freezing for a week, ideally at 40degF. This is because the flower buds were kept in a cold environment for several months, not just a few weeks. I want them to feel hints of spring before I bring them inside.

Some people believe that soaking the entire length in water of the branches for 24 hours will help to overcome the effects of an extended cold season. This soaking can only be done in a bathtub. You may have a spare bathtub, but I do not want to take the risk of finding out what will happen if I place a “bunch” of sticks in the tub when family members are getting ready for work. I don’t cut until the snow has thawed.

The majority of articles I’ve seen on this subject assume that my winter is shorter than it actually is. The schedule provided by the Vermont Cooperative Extension may be more realistic in cold climates. However, they still suggest that you start cutting your grass earlier than me. Try different things to find out what works for you.

What type of branches do you use?

You can use any woody plant that blooms or budding early. It all depends on the plants in your garden. It is easier if you need to prune it anyway.

Forsythia would be my first choice. It is easy to grow indoors, it needs to be thinned and I like the sunshine yellow color. It blooms early outside, so it is close to blooming indoors. It’s important to only force branches with flower buds.

I have found that the newest growth is only leaves. You should choose branches at least two-years old. You will notice two types of buds on a branch if you examine it closely. The flower buds are those that have a plumper appearance. On the picture above, they have already begun to open. The leaf buds have scales and are smaller.

You want to remove branches with lots of flowers, but you also have to do it for aesthetics. Old branches that are pruned do not always have a lot of flowers.

I have also forced flowering quince. The branches did not bloom the first year that I used. The buds did swell, but they never went any further. They eventually started to brown, drop off and the branches began to leaf out.

Last year, I decided that I had cut the branches too early. I waited a little longer to cut them. Like with the forsythia I pruned branches that were already needed. The branches in this case were overhanging a parking lot, and so were not the oldest, but they had many flower buds. The flower color looked paler than normal, which I liked better.

Normaly, I would not cut branches from my February daphne ( Daphne mezereum), as it hasn’t grown much yet. I needed to branch it so that I could plant bulbocodiums and primroses at the base. Naturally, I forced the branches.

Some other plants I haven’t grown include Cornelian Cherry, Witch Hazel (spring-blooming varieties), Poplar, Willow, Red Maple, Alder, Juneberry (apple and crabapple), Birch, and Cherry. Start with what you already have or what your neighbor has given you permission to harvest.

You will have probably cut many side branches on larger branches if you used good pruning techniques. Look over everything to see if there are any more cuts you can make before going inside. This will allow you to bring smaller branches that have the most flower buds in the house.

After you have cut them, what do you do?

The flowers are treated like other cut flowers, but the reward is longer.

• Use clean water in a vase that is clean. Select a vase large enough to accommodate the branches, but not so big that it will tip.
• Under water, make two parallel cuts (like a ‘cross’) to increase the surface available for water absorption.
• Place in a room that is cool and away from the sun. Wait. Usually, it takes two weeks. However, if the buds haven’t developed much yet, this could take even longer.
• Replace the water when you notice it getting cloudy or every two days.
• Pat yourself on the back when the buds begin to open! If you want to see the flowers as you go through your day, you can move them into a warm room. However, they will degrade more quickly.

Last words. . .

Start by sticking the pruned piece into a vase or bucket of water to see what happens. Even trees you wouldn’t think to be “flowering” are capable of providing some interest. The worst thing that can happen is nothing. . . nothing. Nothing.

Even if your trimmings don’t bloom, they may still leaf out weeks before they would outside. This is a great way to bring a bit of spring inside. It can become addictive. You’ll soon be looking at your garden to see what else you can cut and selecting new woodies based on their ease of forcing. Last year, I planted willows that were known for their attractive catkins.